Heels & Hair: A Century of Style in Step

Fashion has always been a dance between form, function, and flair — and few pairings capture this as clearly as the relationship between women’s shoe heels and hairstyles. From the sleek finger waves of the 1920s to the towering perms of the 1980s and beyond, heel thickness and hair silhouette have often mirrored one another, shaping how women expressed themselves in changing times.

1920s–1930s: The Era of Sleek Strength

The 1920s brought chunky heels to the dance floor and sleek hairstyles to the salon chair. Think Clara Bow with her glossy bob and finger waves — hair slim at the crown but blossoming through the mid-lengths and ends. Heels were thicker, practical for the Charleston and long nights of jazz. The 1930s kept that balance. Shoes retained a sturdy heel, while hair stayed polished and controlled. Screen icons like Ginger Rogers and Lena Horne embodied this elegance: hair sleek, refined, and ready for the spotlight.

1940s: Platforms, Rag Curls, and War-Time Resolve

As World War II reshaped women’s lives, fashion reflected resilience. Heels gained more height through platforms, maintaining thickness for stability.

Hairstyles, often set in rag curls, hugged the crown while flowing in structured waves — think Veronica Lake’s iconic peek-a-boo. By 1947, everything changed. Christian Dior’s “New Look” swept in with voluminous skirts and nipped waists. Suddenly, skirts widened, hats broadened, and heels thinned to stilettos, elongating the legs to balance the silhouette. This Dior signature would shape fashion well into the 1950s.

1950s–1960s: The Higher the Hair, the Sharper the Heel

The 1950s exploded with hair height — teased, sprayed, and stacked skyward. Stars like Brigitte Bardot defined this era of big bouffants and sultry waves. Heels, now thin and spiky, mirrored the sleek line of the leg and the architectural shapes above. The 1960s went bigger still: at the 1961 Inaugural Balls, Jackie Kennedy’s elegant bouffant updo became an instant symbol of refined glamour. Around the same time, Diana Ross & The Supremes showcased soaring coiffures, Dusty Springfield’s beehive hit iconic heights, and Diahann Carroll epitomized polished sophistication. Hair reached its loftiest forms, supported by stiletto-thin heels.

1970s: Rebellion, Freedom, and Disco Revival

The Vietnam War era ushered in a rebellion against excess. Young women rejected their parents’ rigid fashions. Sleeker, “ironed” hair and effortless Vidal Sassoon cuts ruled, alongside large-roller sets that gave smooth, narrow silhouettes. Heels widened again, matching the laid-back, anti-establishment mood. By 1974, disco crashed in. Hair swelled once more — Dorothy Hamill’s wedge, Toni Tennille’s softness, and Donna Summer’s glamour. The stiletto reemerged by the late ’70s, paving the way for the hair explosion of the 1980s.

1980s: The Architecture of Excess

No decade embraced “bigger is better” like the 1980s. Hair reached architectural

proportions thanks to perms — not your grandmother’s ToniWave, but a scaffolding of curl and volume meant to support the wildest shapes yet. Stilettos stayed razor-thin, echoing the aggressive sharpness of the hair itself.

1990s–2000s: Rebellion and Refinement

The late ’80s and early ’90s gave us Club Kids, grunge, and Paula Abdul — sleeker hair, undone textures, and chunkier heels that matched baggier silhouettes. “A wider pant leg begs for a chunkier heel,” as the saying goes, and this pairing defined the decade. Meanwhile, the supermodel era refined glamour. Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer — hair with guts and texture, paired with sleek pumps. By the early 2000s, women embraced their natural curl and body again, hair expanding once more as thinner heels returned to complement the volume.

Today: The Age of Freedom

Looking back, a clear pattern emerges: thicker heels often coincided with sleeker hair; thinner heels often with fuller hair. Each shift wasn’t random — it was a reflection of cultural moods, from wartime practicality to disco exuberance to grunge rebellion. But today, fashion has evolved into a new paradigm: choice. Women no longer dress by rigid rules of heel-to-hair proportion. Instead, the guiding principle is self-determination — to balance, contrast, or reinvent according to one’s own vision. As you stand before the mirror, hair styled and heels chosen, the question isn’t “What should I wear?” but “What do I want to say today?”

Whether in stilettos or block heels, in sleek Sassoon lines or wild curls, you are free to define your own silhouette. Hair and heels don’t dictate your style — they amplify your

voice.

As the world of hair fashion continues to evolve, we at Capozzi & Co. Salon are excited to stay at the forefront of these trends. Our ultimate goal is to help you embrace your unique style, allowing your hair to speak volumes about your personality. Stay tuned to our blog for more trend reports, style inspirations, and tips to maintain your hair's health and luster. Remember, no matter the trend, the best look you can wear is one that makes you feel your best. Book a free consultation today by clicking here: www.capozzisalon.com/book-now or call us at 631-589-1133 and let us guide you to the best style that fits your head/face shape, personality, and lifestyle.